A New Wave Hits Manchester: New Wave Ramen

Visit Date: 08 April 2025

Let's address the elephant in the broth, shall we? Ramen, to our Japanese friends, isn't the rarified culinary experience we Brits consider it. It's a post night-out feast: the equivalent of a post-pub kebab, minus the pitta and the regret. A ubiquitous fast food, a late-night saviour of the intoxicated. But unlike our greasy takeaways that demand a three-day penance of green juices and self-loathing, ramen offers comfort without compromise.

My own ramen enlightenment came along the canals of Fukuoka, Japan. After a day stretched too long with work and conference obligations (read: free beer), hunger got the better of me. The aromas wafting from tiny canal-side huts proved irresistible, and before I knew it, I was ducking my head into a small tent with seats. The lone figure inside – simultaneously chef, waiter, barman and kitchen porter – motioned me to sit and promptly delivered a steaming bowl that would forever change my understanding of what noodle soup could be.

New Wave Ramen began life as a stall in Manchester's bustling food market, Mackie Mayor, but has since graduated to its own two-floor restaurant on Tib Lane. Not Tib Street, mind you, which is where I initially headed – a rookie error that added a good 15-minute stroll to what Thom Hetherington eloquently calls the 'square half mile' of Manchester's posh bit. By the time I arrived, appetite thoroughly worked up, I was promptly greeted and settled – Tokyo ramen shop style – at the counter, where the magic happens.

True to its name, the restaurant embraces the 'new wave' ethos with non-traditional toppings, innovative proteins, and ingredients of impeccable quality. Though I was tempted by the Lamb Tantanmen, I felt compelled to benchmark them on a classic first. The O.G. Paitan (£15) beckoned – a bowl of creamy chicken broth that arrived bearing treasures: slices of pork belly lounging like sunbathers, a sheet of nori standing to attention, and spring onions scattered with the precision of a Japanese garden designer.

I also ordered the Chashu Rice (£8) – a perfect little mound of pearly grains crowned with charred pork belly, drizzled with a sunshine-yellow sauce and topped with vibrant rings of spring onion. The meat, when isolated from the ramen, revealed its own character – smoky edges giving way to tender, yielding flesh that had clearly been cooked with patience and precision.

Taking advantage of the generous happy hour, I indulged in a Hanami Highball (£11 reduced to £7) – a fragrant, fruity concoction of gin, cherry, plum and citrus soda that provided the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the ramen.

My total bill, including deserved 10% tip, came to £33. The ramen itself is priced at £14-15, with additional toppings ranging from 50p for extra spring onions to £3 for extra pork belly or noodles – that sweet spot between casual dining and special occasion.

In a city rapidly establishing itself as one of Britain's most exciting food destinations, New Wave Ramen honors tradition while confidently charting its own course through Manchester's increasingly sophisticated culinary waters.

So go, and prepare for a bowl of something that transcends its humble origins. Just don't wear white, don't expect to leave without at least one splash of broth on your person, and don't wait for it to cool down. Ramen waits for no one – a lesson I learned long ago on a Fukuoka canal, and one that's worth remembering in the heart of Manchester.

On a follow-up visit, I'll be tackling that Lamb Tantanmen and exploring their sake selection. Because some waves are worth catching twice.

Rating: 4.5/5 – Worth both the journey and the inevitable cleaning bill.